Mountaineering School

Our objective in this mountaineering course is not just about reaching the summit of a Himalayan peak, although this is a major accomplishment in itself. We specialise in providing the climbing training to equip you with the necessary skills to become a competent expedition member. After a long trek into the Everest region with rest days to acclimatise, we head to our base for the necessary training. Nepal's unique environment and consistent conditions provide the perfect classroom for our high altitude school. A solid ratio of Instructors and small groups numbers guarantees you the attention required for a successful summit attempt. All technical equipment is supplied for this mountaineering course.

Island Peak at 6160m was first ascended by a British expedition that included Tenzing Norgay. Eric Shiptons party named the peak in 1953, as it resembled an island in a sea of ice. The peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse and linked to the semicircle of cliffs that rise to the north of the summit of Nuptse.

We have the option of two days for summit attempts at the end of the mountaineering school, to allow for weather and health, and there is no obligation to try either if you decide it's not for you. You can relax and then enjoy the trekking back down.

Our mountaineering course is suitable for the complete climbing novice or as a great refresher for those who want to climb again. A good level of fitness is required for this trip and positive attitude. Island Peak is a substantial undertaking, with the summit day requiring hard work and commitment, however, the rewards of standing on top of this Himalayan classic are ten-fold.

Expedition Dates: 23rd October - 12th November 2012

Trip Itinerary

23rd October
We leave on a domestic flight on a small 16 seated plane from Kathmandu to Lukla. This dramatic 40 minute flight gives us our first views of the Everest region. Lukla at 2850m is the main in / out point for expeditions into this region with their supplies, due to the location of the airfield. Immediately you step from the plane you will be enshrined into the real Nepalese culture, as we start our half day walk through the terraced fields to Phakding (2640m), our stop for the evening.

24th October
We depart for Namche Bazaar today, passing through many small villages and through the official gateway to the Sagarmartha (Everest) National Park. After this we trek up over the high suspension bridge spanning the Dudh Kosi (river from Everest), through pine & cedar woods and on to Namche. Namche is the Sherpa capital of Nepal set well up into the mountains with great views and an enchanting settlement.

25th October
Day in Namche (3450) to acclimatise. An essential part of the trek is to rest and allow the body to adjust to the altitude. We may take a short hike to Thame and return to Namche for the required sleep lower down.

26th October
We leave to trek up the Gokyo valley, known for it beautiful lush stream and lake environment and less busy than many other trekking routes.

This route takes us up to Syangboche (3900m), situated above Namche and offering great views of some of the major peaks surrounding us. We then continue through stunning scenery, past the village school built by Sir Edmund Hilary, and on to Khumjung (3790m), where you can view the scalp of the legendary Yeti!

By this point our trek will be interspersed with views of Everest as we get further into the National Park.

27th October
Today we ascend up to Moung La (‘La’ - meaning pass), with great views again at this high point (3973m) before dropping down through rhododendron forests to Phortse Tenga (3500m) to follow the river. After a day of ups and downs we then ascend through forest areas, home to many pheasants, shy deer and waterfalls to our left and right, to our rest point at Dole (4040m).

28th October
From Dole we follow the valley gradually climbing in height with more impressive and extensive views as we come to a wide valley at Machermo (4410m).

29th October
A rest day / acclimatisation day in Machermo. A relaxing spot with great views and a chance to take it all in whilst recovering.

30th October
Today we head off to Gokyo. (4791m) the highest lake in the world. As we pass many 7000+ metre peaks towering above us, we ascend across the bottom of the Glaciers, and follow the narrowing river and lakes to a broad view that really will convince you that you are near the roof of the world. From here you can see the rich turquoise lakes and etched mountains that you would normally only see in photos. We stay the night here.

31st October
A dramatic day ahead. Dependant on time and weather we may head for the Gokyo ridge (5340m). A stiff 1½ hour climb gets us to this stunning pray flag bedecked panoramic view point, overlooking glaciers, sheer rock, grass, snow & ice. We then descend and cross the Ngojumba Glacier to reach Thagna, our evening camp.

1st November
The high point of the trek today leads us over the Cho La Pass at 5420 metres. After lots of stream crossings we ascend up a small valley, past Cho La peak base camp and up a rocky trail. The exposed trail leads to the pass cairns, pray flags and glacier. We then cross high on the glacier, traversing the icy paths, before descending on to gain easier ground on the valley below. With great views of Ama Dablam and surreal sunsets, we end up at Dzongla for the evening. A harder but dramatically stunning day.

2nd November
From Dzongla we drop down in altitude to 4200m cross the main Everest trekking route, before climbing the route on the opposite valley to Chukung, our base for the mountaineering training school. By this time the combination of rest days, high altitude and the final descent will have aided our acclimatisation to the altitude.

3rd November - 8th November

The itinerary for the next 6 days is based on learning all the necessary skills required to climb Island Peak. Based at a camp at Chukung we utilize the stunning backdrop of the Himalayas to practice techniques such as, ice axe arrests, using crampons, rope work, using a variety of technical kit for belaying, and essentially, working as a team. The whole climbing training experience is unique to this trip, as we provide the combination of environment, knowledge and experience.  No other course can offer this. 

Trek to island Peak base camp (5070m) and prepare for next day. An early night here!

For those fit and ready, we make an early start at 2 am to make the best of the conditions and to allow plenty of time to summit at 6189m.  You will never ever forget the 360 degree views of the highest peaks in the world, and the fantastic feeling of climbing a Himalayan peak.

All being well we should be back at base camp by late lunch time, enjoying a well deserved rest.

There is no guarantee that participants will reach the summit, due to weather and personal health factors.

If there are no delays on the acclimatisation trek in, we aim to reserve this day as a spare summit day to allow for weather and personal health. If this is not required we start our descent to Lukla.

9th November
We head down the valley to Deboche (3825m) with increasing speed as we descend and are less affected by the altitude. The valley opens up on to good trails as we pass the loaded Yaks heading up the tracks to restock the villages.

10th November
We leave Deboche passing the famous Tengboche Monastery with amazing wood carvings and prayer wheels. We then descend down the side of the valley through Namche Bazaar to Jorsale (2740m) passing through more villages as we return on the same route as we started on over two weeks earlier.

11th November
We cross over the Dudh Kosi river down to Lukla for our last night in the mountains. We spend the evening in Lukla before catching flight out to KTM the following morning.

12th November
Fly back to Kathmandu. No doubt after a clean up, a good meal out in Thamel, and tales of climbing adventures, we will be brought back down to earth (at a lower altitude!).

Expedition Cost: £1600.00

This cost includes:
Internal flights,
3 meals a day trekking,
All porters
Park fees and permits,
All Nepal land transportation
All safety equipment
All accommodation within trip dates
Qualified experienced UK guide
Medical and Phone back up
Highly experienced Nepalese guides.

It does not include:
International flights
Personal accident insurance (we can advise on suitable cover)
Climbing boots (available to hire in Nepal)
Alcoholic drinks
Personal expenses and meals in Kathmandu

Guide gratuities